Today's trip was a smashing success. I left home later than I'd planned this morning, around 11, after doing some last-minute foglight bulb changes - the halogens are blowing out, like, every couple of days, which is a hassle at $9 a bulb. Yesterday I spent a couple hours wrenching; changed the oil and oil filter, and the spark plugs. Changing the plugs actually made a really big difference in Zoë's power output; she idles much more smoothly and power comes on quicker when I open her up. Anyway, all good stuff.
It was a perfect day. I'm really wondering when the winter's going to show up; today was warm and cloudless. The trip plan was the Edmonds-Kingston ferry over to the Olympic Peninsula, then follow Hwy 104 to Hwy 101, turn south to Quilcene, and ride the well-recommended section of 101 between Quilcene and Hoodsport (DH22 if you're following along in your copy of Destination Highways Washington). Taking a bike onto the ferries up here is awesome. You just show up, give the man your $5.80, go straight to the head of the line, and off you go. In a car, on a summer Sunday, you can expect to wait two hours in line. Here's a bunch of us bikers heading West on the ferry this morning:

That part of 101 starts (at the north end) winding through the Olympic National Forest; heavily wooded evergreens and steep mini-mountains. As you head south out of the Quilcene range, 101 works its way to the edge of Hood Canal, a good-sized estuary of Puget Sound a couple of miles wide according to my map - big enough that the Navy has a ballistic missile sub base here. Great vistas out over the Canal and up into the mountains.


Anyway, a wonderful ride. Traffic was pretty light and I made good time. The only annoying part about this trip is the irrational speed limit changes all over the place. I almost blundered past a lurking state patrolman coming through the town of Eldon, but a nice Harley rider coming the other way flashed his brights at me in warning, and by the time I reached the officer I was safely below the limit.
Ate lunch in Hoodsport at the scenic Model T Pub & Eatery, which was much more a pub than an eatery - the waitress sadly informed me that she couldn't get me a burger because "the hamburger machine was broken" - but good nonetheless. My options at this point were to retrace my steps, or take a different and much less interesting and longer route south through Shelton and Olympia, back to I5. I turned around.

Destination Highways lists, in addition to their Destination Highways, a large number of shorter routes they call Twisted Edges. There happened to be one of these routes coming off 104 at Quilcene and heading back to the Hood Canal Bridge (DH22 TE-B, Dabob Rd - Coyle Rd - Thorndyte Rd - S Point Rd) and I threw that into the mix for the way back. Talk about remote. This route heads through a very heavily wooded part of the Toandos Peninsula that's given over mostly to tree farms for the paper industry, and along these roads you can go some time between seeing any cars. Also, twisty as hell. Major elevation changes, 10-mph s-curves, the works. I'll file this route as something I need to hit again.
I am always amazed by the folks I meet riding around. There was an older couple on a giant Kawasaki version of the Gold Wing, that had come most recently from Indiana. A large contingent of Christian Harley riders, a bunch of other Suzuki pilots on several Hayabusas, Gixxers, and an SV1000S. Chatted on the ferry with one Harley rider about the little bell (about a half-inch long) he had affixed to his frame; he told me it warded off evil spirits from making his bike break down. I asked if it worked, and he replied that he hadn't broken down yet, so he reckoned so. Apparently you can't buy those; you have to have a mentor gift gift one to you. Cool tradition.
I'd stopped at one point to take a picture, and during that time three groups of riders passed me, and the lead rider in each group gestured to me "are you okay? do you need help?" If my car was on the side of the road, I know not one driver in a hundred would think to stop and help. Riders really are a whole different breed.
All in all, about 140 miles today, and a really great time. If you're in the area, ride this route, it's awesome. And come to think of it, send me an email, and I'll come ride it again.

(and here's the best named river in Washington State: the Hamma Hamma. Please Hamma, don't hurt 'em!)